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Letters: Travel cuts will leave disabled and older people stranded

August 30, 2010

It's not just the unions who are furious about plans to cut 800 jobs on London Underground (Report, 25 August). Transport for All is extremely concerned about how these cuts will affect older and disabled Londoners. The threatened cuts of over 7,400 hours of ticket office staffing every week across the London network will have a disastrous impact on the freedom and independence of disabled and older Londoners. Transport for London seems to think Oyster machines and CCTV can replace staff. They cannot. Many of our members have impairments such as blindness or learning difficulties which mean they simply cannot use automatic ticket machines, and without a staffed ticket office, will effectively be barred from the tube.The presence of station staff is also crucial in making people feel safe. Disabled people are also at greater risk of violence or hostility, and we feel more vulnerable to crime and harassment. We feel particularly unsafe on empty platforms or when there is no one else at a station. The threatened cuts have been dubbed "a mugger's charter" with good reason: CCTV may be able to record an attack, but cannot intervene.Every day, tube staff support disabled people to buy tickets, advise on routes, manage stairs and escalators and to board trains. We already hear from disabled people who have been left stranded on trains, with no staff available to help them disembark. This will only become more common with a cut in the number of staff. It's of particularly serious concern during service disruptions and emergencies, where a lack of staff to assist disabled people would be actively dangerous. Lianna EtkindCampaigns co-ordinator, Transport for All• The coalition government's disregard of its equality duty has implications for older, as well as disabled people (Legal threats to coalition budget cuts, 27 August). A new nationwide system of concessionary travel administered by councils will be introduced in April 2011 and there is considerable concern that only the mandatory free bus pass for older people will be affordable. Other travel concessions, that were discretionary under the previous arrangements, will be scrapped if the government does not provide enough money to ensure compliance with the Disability Discrimination Act. Many frail elderly and disabled people will be left stranded and severely disadvantaged if alternatives, such as companion passes, travel tokens and rail cards, are removed.Diane AndrewesOld Bursledon, Hampshire

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Hotel review | Sanctum on the Green, Berkshire

August 28, 2010

You won't find a Rolls dumped in the swimming pool – this posh new hotel, opened by the music-industry owner of London's Sanctum Soho, is for rock'n'rollers who've grown up"Look, even that bungalow is on with Hamptons," says D at the upmarket For Sale board. Oh yes, we are in no doubt Royal Berkshire is posh long before reaching the electric gates at Sanctum on the Green, the new, country outpost of Sanctum Soho (which opened last year in central London, billed as the capital's first rock'n'roll hotel). Iron Maiden's manager, Andy Taylor, a partner in Sanctum Soho, also happens to own the freehold of this attractive former coaching inn near Windsor. The location might not sound very rock'n'roll, but this is exactly the sort of area favoured by musicians. Big houses at prices to keep out the hoi polloi, proximity to Heathrow, handy for the M40 into London.Sanctum on the Green has nine bedrooms, one treatment room, restaurant, outside wedding licence and someone's Harley-Davidson in the car park. We pull up next to it then have to cross the pool area (bizarrely) to reach reception. D's room is ready, mine not quite, says the receptionist. Someone on our side of the desk (whom I mistake for a guest) explains they are short-staffed today. Good job we've only come from the M4, not Madison Square Garden.We ditch bags in D's poolside deluxe double. Bath in an alcove ("Cobweb down there," she says peering behind it), separate loo and shower, and a sexy blend of greys, and black velour. All for an un-glitzy £160 a night (considering B&Bs now charge similar rates).Sun-lounging. Tea and a latte arrive unembellished by treats. "Kitchen's there," says D, waving a hand behind her. "They've spotted we don't need fattening up." A chef slip-slops past in his Crocs. Back and forth. The woman with the inside track on housekeeping pops outside to talk into her mobile."Proper coffee – not a Starbucks' milkshake," remarks D just as manager Steve – owner of the Harley, it turns out – offers to take me to my room. He shows me a perfect, walled outside eating area en route and chats about his passion for cigars (he's done his best, with an outside stone fireplace and heaters, to create somewhere civilised to partake).My upstairs room overlooks the old cricket green, has a shower with mood lighting, faux French furnishings, leatherette walls the colour of old gold, the clearest TV instructions ever and, like D's, a diamante door handle.Down in the bar, we graze on the freshest olives from Puglia (brought by Giovanni the Italian barman, waiter and star-turn coffee maker), then move to a table overlooking lavender bushes and the walled patio.Love this setting, though food is a bit hit and miss. Starters – grilled squid, rocket and chilli oak-smoked salmon, and quinoa, pomegranate, avocado and pink grapefruit salad are stunning, but a main of poached chicken breast with truffle and Earl Grey broth comes on sliced new potatoes instead of mash as per the menu. At breakfast, in the sunny conservatory, my omelette is fluffy perfection and fruit smoothie delicious but D says her maple-cured bacon is "not the best I've had on tour with you". I reckon these are mere teething troubles, but our single biggest moan is that the day-to-day running is not as unobtrusive as it ought to be. As if to underline the point, our peace at breakfast is suddenly shattered. A gardener walks past the conservatory window, blithely revving his hedge-trimmer.

Sally Shalam

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Oxford's top 10 budget eats

August 27, 2010

This weekend, the Foodies Festival takes over Oxford's South Parks, but where else in the city can you find great, affordable food? Tony Naylor unearths Oxford's best budget eats

• Food blog: what do you make of our top 10?1. The Mission Mexican GrillThis tribute to the taquerias of San Francisco's Mission District, aims to bring authentic Cal-Mex food to Oxford. Certainly, its burritos bear comparison with the best that Britain, a country with a burgeoning interest in pinto beans, sour cream and flour tortillas, has to offer (see also, Daddy Donkey, London; Bar Burrito, Manchester/Liverpool). The distribution of ingredients through my sample burrito was a little uneven – the aim, surely, is to get a little bit of everything in every bite? – but said ingredients were first-rate. The Mission's much vaunted carnitas, pork roasted very slowly with thyme, bay leaves and orange zest, does, indeed, offer fathoms of flavour. It's the sort of meat that stirs the soul. • Burritos from £4.95. 8 St Michael's Street, +44 (0)1865 202016; 2 King Edward Street +44 (0)1865 722020; missionburritos.co.uk 2. Oxford Covered MarketIt's not exactly Barcelona's Boqueria, but this market, which dates to 1774, does include a surprisingly large number of interesting (and cheap) places to eat. These include a cafe outpost of Bristol's gourmet pie company, Pieminister (meals from £5; takeaway pies £3.50; pieminister.co.uk); the original Ben's Cookies kiosk, where you can pick-up oven-warm, ethereally light, moist cookies, the chocolate still melting in the middle (cookies around £1.20; benscookies.com); and the small, attractive corner deli, Fasta Pasta. The latter is owned by Taylor's (taylorsoxford.co.uk), an Oxford mini-chain of upmarket sandwich shops, and Fasta Pasta's sandwich selection is similarly impressive (from £2). The breads are exceptionally fresh, and a sandwich filling of chicken and chorizo bound with a homemade, harissa-laced North African "pesto", was winningly different. Locals, meanwhile, swear by the ever busy Brown's, the "original" market cafe, where you can get a full English for £4.85, sandwiches from £1.50 and home-cooked British staples such as liver and bacon and cottage pie for around £6. There is, enthuses one Brown's fan: "None of that gastro rubbish!" Although, curiously, from its bolo de arroz cakes to beef with fried eggs, there is a distinct Portuguese undercurrent running through the menu. • Market Street, oxford-covered-market.co.uk3. The Nosebag RestaurantThis long-standing local favourite – upstairs from Makan La on St Michael's Street – is a simple, cafeteria-style eaterie offering reliably good homemade pates, quiches, curries, casseroles and lasagnes, most of them served with a choice of three salads from a vibrant selection. There is always a good choice of vegetarian dishes available (such as sweet pepper and lentil lasagne, or mushroom and butter bean stroganoff), although it was a sampler of tasty, generously filled salmon and watercress quiche that secured Nosebag's place in this top 10. The dishes on the evening menu are a little more sophisticated and slightly more expensive (mains up to £11). • Snacks from £1.50, dishes from £4-£8. 6-8 St Michael's Street, +44 (0)1865 721033; nosebagoxford.co.uk4. The Big BangSausage 'n' mash is one of those classic British dishes which, after years of neglect, we are belatedly beginning to take real pride in. No one more so than Max Mason, owner of the Big Bang in Oxford's trendy Jericho enclave. The concept could not be simpler: he sources high-quality sausages from small farms and traditional local butchers; you match them to a range of mash and gravy options. The lunch deal (£5.50), which allows you to choose two sausages with a substantial dollop of well-worked, creamy mash, gravy and a sprinkling of (slightly withered) fried onions, is particularly filling good value. When in Rome and all that, you may want to try the Oxford sausage, a stridently herby, peppery pork and sage banger. The range runs from a simple pork and leek to specialities such as pheasant and pear, and beef and Guinness, the latter a seriously meaty mouthful. The small restaurant space itself is pretty basic – cheap bistro furniture, utilitarian office carpet, dated polystyrene ceiling tiles – but the service is pleasant, the sausages good and the price right. If you're really watching the pennies, but want to visit in the evening, note the "cheapskate" and hot-dog menu options.• Lunch deal £5.50, standard mains around £9. 124 Walton Street, Jericho, +44 (0)1865 511441; thebigbangrestaurants.co.uk5. BrancaBack in the day, Branca was a real innovation for Jericho; a big, sexy, post-industrial bar-diner seemingly beamed in from London or New York. If, since 2000, the novelty has worn off, the quality remains. Prices are pretty keen, the cooking is of notable quality, the staff are on the ball and, on a wet, grey Wednesday afternoon, it was still buzzing with activity. 12-5pm daily, you can eat a "small" stonebaked pizza, pasta, antipasti or risotto with a glass of house wine or a Peroni for £6.65. A sampler plate of smoked haddock risotto looked like a fair three-quarter portion and contained plenty of fish. It was accurately cooked – properly seasoned; light and creamy; the rice had retained a little bite; the peas and onions were still al dente – and was conscientiously topped with a little chopped parsley and lemon zest. Pound-for-pound it was the best thing I ate during this whizz around Oxford. Two-course and drink offer (£10.45) available Mon-Fri, midday-7pm, Saturday until 5pm. • Lunch deal £6.65, standard mains/pizza from £8. 111 Walton Street, +44 (0)1865 556111; branca-restaurants.com 6. Al-ShamiTwenty-two years in, this understated Lebanese restaurant continues to attract Oxford's foodies. The meze may be described as "small dishes", and start at just £1.80, but they're bigger than tapas, and six-to-eight between two would make for a substantial shared meal. Favourites such as hummus, tabbouleh, falafel and fattoush are all present and correct, but there are plenty of things that you might not recognise, too, from bastorma (dried, cured and spiced beef) and the spicy Armenian sausage, sujuq, to kibbeh maqlia, little shaped, deep-fried "eggs" of ground meat and wheat, stuffed with a (slightly underseasoned) mix of lamb, pine nuts and onion. Lebanese wines and araks available, although the Almaza lager (£1.90) is as sweetly nondescript as most Mediterranean beers. Please note that unusually a £1 cover charge applies, per person, and a 10% service charge was also added to the bill, which nudged a £7.90 sub-total up to £9.80. • Meze £1.80-£4, larger dishes from £5.75. 25 Walton Crescent, +44 (0)1865 310066; al-shami.co.uk 7. The Yard at Modern Art Oxford Even in its normal indoor incarnation, the Modern Art gallery's cafe is worth a visit. It does a strong, fruity flat white (coffees from £1.50) and bakes a mean cake. Its crazily rich, inch-thick banana, walnut and chocolate brownie has a dense, fondant consistency, more chocolate truffle than cake. You can almost feel your arteries furring up, but what a way to go. It also serves fat gourmet sandwiches (£4.50), salads and savoury tarts, as well bottles of Friel's cider and St Peter's ales (£3.50). However, at the moment, and until 12 September, it's not just food that's attracting people to the Modern Art, but the space itself. In collaboration with architects, dRMM, artist Richard Woods, who specialises in all-encompassing installations, has transformed the Modern Art's delivery bay into a playful temporary cafe, The Yard. • Snacks from around £2-£5. 30 Pembroke Street, +44 (0)1865 722733; modernartoxford.org.uk 8. The Vaults & Garden Cafe When they say small soup, they mean small soup. Literally, a cup, for £2.75. But it's a very tasty leek and potato, the real artisan bread (50p) lives up to the billing, and, I suppose, local, organic ingredients – veg...

Top 10 UK walks: Rhossili Downs and Bay, Swansea

August 27, 2010

National Trust UK walk 10, best for beaches: admire views of one of Britain's finest sandy bays from Rhossili Downs before descending through the dunes to walk along the surfDespite three quarters of a million people visiting Rhossilli annually, this walk feels isolated and that it's there just for you. My favourite part is the beacon at the top of Rhossili Down after a bit of a climb at the start. It never fails to take your breath away; both the beauty of the views and steepness of the incline. Here you can see Worms Head and Burry Holmes tidal islands which reach out their arms into the sea and appear to cuddle the beach spreading out three miles underneath you. The uninterrupted 360-degree views encapsulate the whole of the Gower's fabulous topography. It's possible to see Devon in the distance in one direction and Swansea in the other. Lie down in the heather up here and look at the clouds, all you will be able to hear are the sound of skylark. Bring some binoculars and a flask of tea which should give you a great excuse to sit down and enjoy the surroundings.
Sian Jones, property manager, National TrustRoute and directionsDistance: 5-mile (8km) circular route.Start: Rhossili National Trust visitor centre – grid ref: SS415879 – OS Landranger map 1591. Start at the National Trust visitor centre and walk over the top of Rhossili Down. Many Bronze Age sites have been discovered at the highest points. The Beacon marks the top where there are uninterrupted views in every direction.2. Follow the path towards Hillend.3. Turn back on yourself and take the track to the right which leads to Rhossili beach. Here, at the southern end of the bay, are sand dunes called the Warren. There were once houses and a church here, but over time they became abandoned and buried in the sand. This "lost village" dates back to before the Normans.4. Walk along the beach and back to the visitor centre. The row of three buildings used to be coastguard cottages. One is a National Trust shop, which has recently been refurbished.5. To extend this walk, continue to Worms Head. Take the path along the headland then drop to sea level. At low tide it is possible to walk over the causeway to the isle without getting wet feet. Be careful to check the tide times as you only have about two hours either side of low tide. You'll see why it gained its original name "Wurm", meaning dragon, as it rises from the sea like a mythical beast. Here you can see an Iron Age fort by the cliff edge as well as many seabirds and a natural rock arch known as Devil's Bridge.6. Return the same way or take the path that runs inland back to the visitor centre.Terrain and accessibilityMostly flat but there are some steep climbs. No stiles; just pedestrian gates. Steps from the beach to the car park. Note tide times at the visitor centre before crossing to Worms Head. Take care close to cliffs.Getting there and local facilities On the SW tip of the Gower Peninsula. Approach from Swansea via A4118, then the B4247. There is a regular bus from Swansea, passing near the station. Car parking and WCs (not NT) next to visitor centre. NT holiday cottages, plus refreshments and a YHA in Rhossili village.© Reproduced by permission of Ordnance Survey. All rights reserved. OS licence no. AL 100018591• Visit the National Trust website: nationaltrust.org.uk/walks

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Millions plan bank holiday trip, despite travel disruption and rain showers

August 27, 2010

Britons determined to defy weather forecast and escape to coast or country for the last long weekend of the summer

Latest weather forecasts for the bank holiday weekendThe final bank holiday weekend of the summer will see millions of Britons taking to the roads from tonight.Despite a dreary weather forecast, huge numbers will brave traffic jams and roadworks to escape to the country or coast.Almost 29 million Britons are expected to take a car journey of more than an hour over the long weekend, with one in five travelling for more than four hours.Seventeen music festivals will add to the congestion. Reading and Leeds festivals are each likely to attract 70,000 music fans while Creamfields in Daresbury, Cheshire, is expected to be attended by 40,000.Likely congestion hotspots include all the motorways encircling London, the M6 in the Midlands and north-west, the M1 in the East Midlands and the A1 in Yorkshire. Routes to the West Country, Dorset, the Lake District and Blackpool are all expected to be deluged with traffic.A poll by esure car insurance forecasts an average delay of one hour 24 minutes.Up to 25% of intending travellers will take today off work to avoid the queues.Mike Pickard from esure said travel delays were standard fare for bank holidays, "but this week we're facing a perfect storm for delays on the road".He urged motorists to check their vehicles and take food, water, maps and mobile phone in case of breakdowns. He said although driving through the night was an effective way of avoiding traffic, "this can also be a Russian roulette with tiredness".The RAC said that major routes were likely to start getting particularly busy early this afternoon, with Monday evening and Tuesday morning also expected to be busy.Rail engineering work between Wolverhampton and Stafford will affect services run by Arriva Trains Wales, CrossCountry, London Midland and Virgin, with buses replacing trains on some sections of the west coast mainline.First Capital Connect trains will also be disrupted by work between New Barnet and Welwyn Garden City in Hertfordshire. Buses will replace South West Trains' services between Ascot, Berkshire, and Aldershot, Hampshire.In London, tube travellers also face disruption, with upgrading work causing a shutdown of the Victoria line on Saturday and Sunday.Weather forecasters say the weekend will feature outbreaks of rain across much of England and Wales – but slightly drier conditions are expected by the middle of next week.But with many schools not returning until the week beginning 6 September, the more staggered return should ease the pressure on the roads.Many people are planning to escape the UK's gloom, with Heathrow set to handle 840,000 passengers. Among the most popular destinations are New York, Dubai, Paris and Dublin.About 285,000 travellers are expected to pass through Manchester airport during the same period.Meanwhile several people were airlifted to hospital with serious injuries following a motorway pile-up involving eight vehicles, emergency services said.The accident occurred on the northbound carriageway of the M5 at Cullompton, near Exeter, Devon, shortly before 9pm yesterday.The road was closed in both directions as firefighters cut people from the wreckage.Devon and Somerset Fire and Rescue sent six appliances to the scene. On arrival emergency workers found that a number of people remained trapped in their vehicles.

Helen Carter

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Top 10 UK walks: Brean Down, Somerset

August 26, 2010

National Trust UK walk 9, best for geology: fossilised creatures such as arctic foxes and reindeer have been found on this limestone headland, while rare wild flowers flourish in its thin soilBrean Down is a towering coastal peninsula nearly 100 metres high jutting out into the Bristol Channel, with a tidal range that is the second largest in the world. It is almost the last uprising of the great Mendip Hills escarpment before the carboniferous limestone disappears into the sea, re-emerging several miles out as the islands of Steep Holm and Flat Holm. The Down consists of a steep scarp cliff with outcrops and ledges on its south coast, and a gentle slope to the north, terminating in low cliffs giving exhilarating views of the Bristol Channel, Mendips, Somerset Levels, Quantocks and South Wales. Fossilised creatures such as arctic foxes, reindeer and horses have been found in the sedimentary layers. Walking to the end of the Down is my favourite part of the walk where the Victorian Fort slips into view, and descends towards a very lively sea, creating violent rip tides. Go on a windy day when you can blow all the cobwebs away.
Robert Stephens, warden, National TrustRoute and directionsDistance: three miles (5km)Start: Cove Cafe – grid ref: ST 296588 – maps: OS Landranger 182, Explorer 153plants. Cattle and rabbits1. Follow the road from the cafe towards the headland until you reach some fairly steep steps. These will lead you up on to the Down.2. Once on the Down, take the path to the left, along the southern slopes. In early summer look out for the white flowers of the rare white rock rose.3. Continue along the path until you come to the site of a Romano-Celtic temple. It was built in about AD 340, close to a Bronze Age burial mound. Rock from a quarry on the Down provided some of the stone for the building.4. Further along the path you will come across the remains of a Celtic field system, a series of small rectangular fields.5. Continue up towards the fort, which is on a small hill. Here you can take a closer look at the remains of the fortifications and enjoy spectacular views across the Bristol Channel.6. From the fort make your way back along the other side of the Down to the site of the Iron Age hill-fort. Take a closer look at the banks and ditches before continuing along the path. Follow it round to the right. This will take you back to the steps and down to the cafe. Terrain and accessibilityThis is a moderate walk. Steep at first, some steps. Paths are grassy and rocky in places. Good footwear is advised. Height gain of 97 metres over the walk. If on Brean beach (not NT) be aware of deep mud at low tide. Cliffs are dangerous (children should be supervised). Keep an eye out for changes in the weather as there is little shelter on top of the Down. Dogs should be kept under close control at all times.Getting there and local facilities By foot: a short walk along Berrow beach (not NT)By bus: First (Avon) Service 102 and 112, Burnham – Brean – Weston-super-MareBy train: Highbridge station is 8½ miles away. From here, get on the 112 busBy road: signposted from A370 from Weston-super-Mare to Highbridge, follow the Burnham and Berrow coast roadCar park, toilets and a small information centre at Brean Down's Cove Cafe (not NT).© Reproduced by permission of Ordnance Survey. All rights reserved. OS licence no. AL 100018591• Visit the National Trust website: nationaltrust.org.uk/walks

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Top 10 UK walks: Morte Point, Devon

August 25, 2010

National Trust UK walk 8, best for secluded coves: these isolated bays and rocky headlands were once notorious for smugglers and wreckersThis exhilarating walk along the South West Coast path brings you close to crashing waves on the rocks, fantastic views and abundant wildlife. It's good to do at any time of year – in the winter to experience the wildness of the area and the power of the sea (as long as you are wrapped up warm), while spring and summer are best for wildlife, from seeing grey seals basking in the sunshine to watching peregrine falcons swooping along the cliffs. The views are breathtaking wherever you are but there are also some beautiful quiet spots to discover, such as the secluded cove at Bennett's Mouth and Kinever Valley. My favourite part is the tip of Morte Point, looking both out towards the Morte Stone and beyond to Lundy Island, and inland to the fantastic rock formations in the shape of stegosaurus dinosaur armour plates standing on end.
Jonathan Fairhurst, warden, National TrustRoute and directions Distance: six miles (9.6km) circular walkStart: Mortehoe Heritage Centre car park (EX34 7DT). Grid ref: SS458452. Map: OS Explorer 1391. From Mortehoe Heritage Centre car park turn left and take the lane between the church and the Ship Aground pub, signposted "coast path". Proceed on to the National Trust path to Morte Point – which has a rich history of smuggling and wrecking – keeping to the right of the cemetery and through Morte Point Memorial Park.2. Continue straight on, taking the broad grass track downhill. Turn left after 200m to join a footpath which links to the coast path. The path will now take you round Morte Point; take a look at the views and unusual rock formations in the landscapes.3. Follow the coast path through to Bull Point and the lighthouse, passing Rockham Bay and its sandy beach. Take the gravel path on the left round to the back of the lighthouse and rejoin the coast path.4. Continue uphill until the path starts to descend steeply down steps to the secluded rocky bay of Bennett's Mouth. Before the stile turn sharp right on to the path signposted Mortehoe. Follow the path, keeping the stream on your left.5. Pass through a bridle gate and continue to a signpost. Keep to the lower footpath until you come to a bridge on your left. Do not cross the bridge but follow the path uphill until you reach the tarmac path at the top. Turn left.6. Follow the lane to a metal gate, pass through the gate and continue on the road back to Mortehoe Heritage Centre.Terrain and accessibility Strenuous circular walk along high cliffs and steep valleys. Beware of high winds on the coast path, it can be muddy and slippery in wet weather. Children should be supervised at all times. Dogs welcome under close control.Getting here and local facilities By foot: The South West Coast Path runs through this area from Croyde to Ilfracombe.By bike: National Cycle Network route 27 runs from Ilfracombe to Barnstaple above Woolacombe Bay, passing close to Morthoe and Baggy Point.By bus: From Barnstaple: service 303 for Woolacombe and Mortehoe. Services 1, 2 and 300 for Ilfracombe.By car: A361, Barnstaple to Ilfracombe, then onto B3343. Car park at Mortehoe Heritage Centre (not NT). Shops, pub and WC at Mortehoe (not NT).© Reproduced by permission of Ordnance Survey. All rights reserved. OS licence no. AL 100023974• Visit the National Trust website: nationaltrust.org.uk/walks

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Top 10 UK walks: Ringmore, South Devon

August 24, 2010

National Trust UK walk 7, best for getting away from it all: explore the remote Ringmore Valley to reach an unspoilt hidden cove - then trek back through fields and woodlandAs you set out along the valley, there are no clues as to what you are going to find – only when you are at the end do you glimpse the turquoise blue waters, amazing cliffs and weathered rocks. Explore the amazing rock formations, dip your toes in the sea then take the high cliff-top path to see the dramatic and awe-inspiring coast stretching out to east and west. As you walk over the headland you are rewarded with the view of Bigbury on Sea and Burgh Island, the island that inspired many an Agatha Christie novel. The charming village of Ringmore with its steep thatched roofs and cottage gardens is a lovely to end to this memorable route. Take a blanket to spend some time chilling out on the beach, and if you don't fancy the walk up the cliff then just retrace your steps along the valley – you'll spot things you missed on your way out.
Sarah Baker, visitor development manager, National TrustRoute and directions Distance: a three-mile (5km) circular walk or 1.5 miles (2.4km) to the cove and back.Start: Ayrmer Cove car park – grid ref: SX 649456 – map: OS Explorer OL201. At the far end of the car park follow the sign for Ayrmer Cove along the path known as Smuggler's Lane. The path veers left then winds down to the beach. Look out for wildlife in the hedgerows and admire the hedgelaying. Halfway down is a resting point and your first real glimpse of the cove.2. Just before the beach there is a stretch of restored dry stone wall. This is a great place to spot reptiles, especially adders! At the beach turn right, cross the bridge over the stream and head over the sand dunes.3. Follow the path from the sand dunes through a gap in the wall, then up a steep hill and on to the South West Coast Path. Continue along this path until you get to a fence line and a way-mark post to Ringmore. From the coast path you will notice the cliffs are eroding and the path has been moved a number of times.4. Take a moment to savour the breathtaking coastal views before turning right along the top of Ringmore Valley and along the footpath inland, following a dry stone wall.5. The footpath follows a stone wall back towards Ringmore. Go through two gateways and, after the third, head downhill following the path by the fenced bank to the woods.6. Enter the woods and take the path straight down the hill (there is a short excursion to the orchard area signed on your left). At the bottom of the hill turn left on to the track and follow this round to the right until you come to a small stone bridge.7. Cross the main stream over the bridge (this is a good place to see brown trout and watch for kingfishers). Continue following the footpath. Go through a gate then walk up the hill. Veer left around the back of Lower Manor Farmhouse and follow the road up.8. Just before the brow take the public footpath to the right. Continue to the road. Veer left towards Journey's End Inn. At the inn, turn right up the hill and follow the road to a T-junction. Turn right and walk along the verge back to car park.Terrain and accessibility Fairly strenuous with several steep slopes and steps. Route can be muddy in places after wet weather. Resting points, with some benches, located at various points along the route. Dogs welcome under close control.Getting here and local facilities By bike: four miles from Modbury along busy, narrow roads, steep in placesBy bus: service 875 Plymouth (close to station) to Bigbury on Sea, via Ringmore; Fridays onlyBy train: Plymouth station 15 milesBy car: just off A379 between Modbury and KingsbridgeCar park (NT) and pub (Journeys End Inn) in Ringmore village. Shops at Challaborough (one mile) and post office at St Annes Chapel (two miles).© Reproduced by permission of Ordnance Survey. All rights reserved. OS licence no. AL 100018591• Visit the National Trust website: nationaltrust.org.uk/walks

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Top 10 UK walks: North Antrim coast, Northern Ireland

August 23, 2010

National Trust UK walk 6, best for cliff-top views: This dramatic route has some of the finest cliff scenery in Europe, including panoramic views of the Giant's CausewayI've done a lot of coastal walking but there is nothing else like the North Antrim Coast – tops them all. Find cove after cove of sheer cliffs, ringed and striped by layers of causeway stone, mottled with masses of lichens, and hundreds of coastal flowers throughout the spring and summer. In the winter it can be incredibly exhilarating seeing the Atlantic crashing into the cliff base. It's no wonder some of the Spanish Armada boats were wrecked here. This walk is full of history, heritage, geology and biology. The salmon fishing huts and stories of lost Spanish gold blend with awesome views of rugged rocky coastline created from volcanic eruptions long ago. Now this stretch of coast is home to hundreds of species of flora and fauna that you may not see anywhere else. My favourite part is the highest section of the cliffs, which give an incredible 360-degree view of the area, leaving you in awe of the forces of nature that created and shaped this area.
Toby Edwards, Warden, National TrustRoute and directionsDistance: 4.8 miles (7.7km)Start: Giant's Causeway car park, OS map sheet 4, grid ref C9504541. From the car park take the cliff-top path immediately adjacent to the back of the National Trust shop. Here a number of signs will explain safety information and walking distances. Take great care along the cliff path, especially on windy days.2. Proceed along the cliff-top path and at the first headland (Weir's Snout) pause for one of the best panoramic views of this world heritage site. As you continue along the track, passing headland after headland, the trail of visitors will soon peter out.3. After a mile, the North Antrim Cliff Path will veer sharply right – follow the path and you will be looking down into The Amphitheatre – a spectacular bay, only accessible to nesting fulmars, jackdaws and occasional black guillemots. For the next two miles, the walker is greeted with some of the finest cliff scenery in Europe, with attractively named headlands/bays: Port na Spaniagh, The King and his Nobles, Plaiskin Head, Hamilton's Seat, Benbane Head, Bengore Head, Portnabrock, before culminating in the largest bay, Port Moon, where a salmon fishery once stood – look for the remaining fisherman's bothy. At this stage of the walk, you should be on your own, except for an occasional back packer or passing peregrine falcon. The rare chough is also an occasional visitor along this coast, though unfortunately numbers have declined in recent years. At Port Moon, you are now one mile from your end destination of Dunseverick Castle.4. The cliffs gradually fall in height as you approach the castle and a section of the path goes through open farmland. This is an organic farm owned by the National Trust, so grazing cows will be a common sight. Keep all dogs on leads.5. The North Antrim Cliff Path and this particular walk ends at Dunseverick Castle car park, although a scramble to the old castle walls is optional for the fittest. This was a royal site in the past, with a history of resident Ulster clans. The great road north from Tarra ends here and raiding Vikings, and even St Patrick, are all associated with this Dunseverick site. Now a 4½ mile return walk beckons or the easier prospect of the hourly shuttle bus in summer.How to get there and local facilitiesBoth Giant's Causeway and Dunseverick are well sign posted from Bushmills and Ballycastle. By bus, the Causeway Rambler Service (Ulsterbus No 376), between Bushmills and Carrick-a-Rede, runs in summer for walkers who choose not to walk the return leg, stopping at Dunseverick Castle.Toilets, tea room and gift shop at Giant's Causeway start point (£5 parking charge) – open year round. No toilets at Dunseverick Castle but there is free car parking, picnic tables, interpretation and a bus stop.Terrain and accessibilityGrassy cliff edge paths, stiles. Car park and picnic area at Dunseverick Castle disability-friendly. The rest of cliff path requires a degree of physical fitness, due to steep slopes – the cliffs are as high as 400ft.© Reproduced by permission of Ordnance Survey. All rights reserved.• Visit the National Trust website: nationaltrust.org.uk/walks

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Top 10 UK walks: Penbryn Beach, Ceredigion

August 20, 2010

National Trust UK walk 5, best for star gazing: This stroll leads to the unspoilt sands of Penbryn beach – a perfect spot for watching the night skyPenbryn Beach is a fantastic walk for star grazing, as its rural location gets next to no light pollution. The beach is a fantastic place on a warm summer's evening for a leisurely stroll and I'd recommend bringing a star chart and a picnic blanket so you can lie back on the beach, listen to the waves and watch the stars. Bring a torch for the walk down to the beach through the woodland, which is a bit rugged but well worth it for all the different varieties of bats you'll see, and the barn owls you can sometimes hear really set the scene. Binoculars will enable you to get closer to the stars – such as the ribbons in the Milky Way – which can be harder to see with the naked eye
Paul Boland, Property Manager, National TrustRoute and directions Distance: 3/4 mile plus up to a mile of beach walkingStart: National Trust Car Park at Llanborth Farm. Grid ref and map: OS Landranger 145 , OS Explorer 198, SN2955211. From the car park, take the road with the farmhouse on the left and the farm buildings on the right. 2. Walk along the road until you reach the beach. An alterative route is to take the footpath through the woodland alongside the river to the beach – a good torch is advisable. From the car park take the footpath designated by the figure post at the woodland end of the car park – follow it down the steps and over the bridge. Follow the path through the woods to the beach.Lay a blanket anywhere on the beach and take in the views of the wide open sky. How to get there and local facilitiesBy bus: 600: Cardigan-Aberporth – Quay West. Last bus: Penbryn – Cardigan 5.50pm, Penbryn – New Quay 3.36pm By road: Take M40 then A40 to Carmarthen, then A484, A487 to Penbryn. There's a WC in the car park Terrain and accessibility The walk along the tarmac road is ¼ mile. There is a steep climb down to the beach and back up to the car park.The walk along the footpath in the woods is ½ mile with several steep steps and moderately rough terrain. The beach is over a mile long depending on the tide. Tarmac road from car park to beach – step gradient – cars may use the road to drop passengers off at the turning circle near the beach.© Reproduced by permission of Ordnance Survey. All rights reserved.• Visit the National Trust website: nationaltrust.org.uk/walks

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Top 10 UK walks: Blakeney Freshes, Norfolk

August 19, 2010

National Trust UK walk 4, best for birdwatching: this route takes you past coastal reed beds and marshes - prime sites for a wealth of sea birds such as bittern, red shank and avocetThe Norfolk coast is one of the best parts of the country for bird watching as there are so many nature reserves all the way along it with lots of salt marshes and other good habitats. This walk takes you between an area of reed beds and marshes with Blakeney Harbour on the other side. The landscape is full of big open skies and you can see up and down the coast for several miles in both directions, while looking straight out to the North Sea. At this time of year you can spot marsh harrier, bittern, red shank, avocet, breeder wading birds and the occasional muntjac and Chinese water deer – so make sure you bring your binoculars. If you follow the way markers about half a mile in, you get really good views of Blakeney harbour and out to Blakeney Point – my favourite part of the walk.
David Wood, head warden, National TrustRoute and directions Distance: three miles (5k)Start: Bus stop, Blakeney Church (TG032436). Maps: Landranger 133/Explorer 251 1. From the bus stop at the start head away from the church into Blakeney village and turn right down the High Street. At the end of the High Street you will come out on to Blakeney Quay.2. Cross the main car parking area of the quay and walk up on to the bank on the right hand side. From here you can see Blakeney Freshes on your right. Take the footpath on top of the bank out towards the harbour.3. Follow the same footpath round to the right.4. Continue along the footpath beside the new river, turning right to head back inland.5. Keep to the footpath on the bank until you reach the A149 between Blakeney and Cley-next-the-sea. Cross the road and turn right, walk up the hill and cross the road again and stay on the pavement until you are back at the bus stop near Blakeney Church© Reproduced by permission of Ordnance Survey. All rights reserved. OS licence no. AL 100018591Terrain and accessibilityThree-mile (5km) circular walk along mostly flat ground. Points 2 to 5 follow the Norfolk Coast Path along a good surface on top of a grassy bank. Part of the walk is along a pavement alongside the coast road. Dogs welcome. Please keep under close control along the Norfolk Coast Path. Leads recommended along roadside sections of the walk.How to get there and local facilitiesBy foot: Norfolk Coast Path runs 45 miles from Hunstanton to Cromer, passing BlakeneyBy bike: Norfolk Coast Cycleway (National Cycle Route 30) runs along quiet lanes from King's Lynn to Cromer, it is an easy one-mile detour to BlakeneyBy bus: Norfolk Coasthopper, Sheringham-Hunstanton. See norfolkgreen.co.uk for bus timesBy road: A149 Sheringham to King's Lynn coast roadWCs at Blakeney and Morston Quay (not NT), refreshments, pubs and car parks at Blakeney, Morston and Stiffkey. Dogs welcome on Coasthopper bus and ferries to Blakeney Point.• Visit the National Trust website: nationaltrust.org.uk/walks

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Britain's best views: motorway mansions

August 19, 2010

Three of Derbyshire's grandest stately homes, just off the M1, lure Martin Wainwright in search of more of Britain's best views

Watch more in the seriesMillions of people sail through one of Britain's best views at high speed, too intent on the hectic traffic of the M1 motorway to notice three remarkable silhouettes on the skyline.Mansfield, Worksop … the names speak to most outsiders of coal-mining and discontent, and as for Bolsover: isn't that the lair of the Beast, the left-wing Labour MP Denis Skinner?It is, and his fame has not yet turned his constituency home into a visitor attraction, but that does not apply to another great local family, the Cavendishes. Chatsworth, not far from here, is the grand mansion most closely associated with them, in their confusing guise as Derbyshire's dukes of Devonshire; but three other vast, Cavendish-related piles each stand within a mile of the hard shoulder.The views from all three are magnificent, but the view of them is also an experience for the inquisitive driver. Heading north (always the sensible thing to do) the first appears magnificently above a steep cliff of hanging woods on the right-hand side after Junction 28: Hardwick Hall, the most famous and perhaps most rewarding of the trio."Hardwick Hall, more window than wall," has been a rhyme since the Countess of Shrewsbury built the extraordinary pile in the 1590s out of a fortune which was second only to that of Queen Elizabeth I. Its National Trust manager Nigel Wright makes no bones about the fact that it was "Footballers' wives stuff, in-your-face, look how well I've done."Bess of Hardwick was a local girl, daughter of a comfortably-off but ordinary squire. Four marriages to ever-more wealthy husbands (all of whom died naturally) took her to the top of the Tudor rich list. The countless diamond panes of glass may resemble a Lancashire cotton mill in some ways, but they – and the ES motifs along the parapet – were the 16th-century equivalent of wine-fed Jacuzzis and gold taps. A retired miner, chatting over a cup of tea at the carpark kiosk, comes up with another appropriate couplet he was taught at school: "Hardwick Hall, no class at all."Snobbish, but then the Cavendishes didn't care about that, as the next of the motorway mansions underlines. The huge, pale building seen on the right between Junctions 29 and 29a, cresting not woods but former miners' terrace housing, is their frivolous playground, Bolsover Castle.Originally a real stronghold, built by the Norman Peverels (of the spectacular Peveril (Peveril) Castle in the Derbyshire Peak), Bolsover was converted by Bess's son into a setting for masques, picnics and heroic feasts. Its ornate "little castle", now a favourite place for civil weddings, has amateurish frescoes with the saucy innocence of Bamforth postcards, while nude cherubs pee eternally into a fountain outside, below a statue of Diana which – such is the careful stewardship of English Heritage – has been measured and found to have one chubby, crooked leg considerably longer than the other.The castle keeps up its traditions. In the indoor riding school – another expensive Cavendish hobby – you may come across the talented pupils of Netherthorpe school in nearby Staveley staging their Shakespeare extract: Bottom's Dream. Other events include Knight Academies this August for budding young warriors in the courtyard and on the terrace with its views far across the M1.In the middle of this vast panorama is the third and most atmospheric motorway mansion, the gutted ruin of Sutton Scarsdale which crowns a gentler rise on the other side of the valley. This was not a Cavendish house but was inspired by jealousy of them; its builder, the 4th Earl of Scarsdale, decided in 1724 that he could do better than the Devonshires' recent Chatsworth improvements.It passed in turn to new money, Richard Arkwright of Spinning Jenny fame, but was shabby and neglected by 1919 when the family sold it to a consortium of asset-strippers. Everything was gutted and flogged to Philadelphia museum and a Hollywood film company, bar some fragments of plasterwork in one roofless room, now presided over by a family of sparrowhawks.Through the hall's eyeless windows you can once again contemplate the M1's endless traffic, Bolsover Castle straight opposite and Hardwick, a pleasant and rural ramble four miles south.Those who like really hard-to-visit relics can add a fourth to their list: the magnificent ruins of Wingfield Manor which Franco Zeffirelli used in his version of Jane Eyre. They don't overlook this stretch of the M1 but are only a few miles off, glimpsable instead from Chesterfield-Derby trains between the Clay Cross tunnel and Bulbridge, west of the line. Access is by pre-booked place on tours only six days a year – the first Saturday in the month, April to September. A rare treat. • The National Trust has holiday cottages on the Hardwick estate and English Heritage has a particularly nice one at Bess's original home, Hardwick Old Hall. The hall stands a stone's throw from the main mansion and its roofless walls form yet another part of the sudden, dramatic view from the M1.

Martin Wainwright

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Top 10 UK walks: Orford Ness, Suffolk

August 18, 2010

National Trust UK walk 3, best for history: once a top-secret military testing site, this rich nature reserve still bears signs of its darker pastOrford Ness is one of the most dynamic landforms on the UK coastline and the largest vegetated shingle spit in Europe. A large proportion of the world's rare coastal vegetated shingle is found here, which together with the marshland provides important habitats for a range of bird species, mammals and invertebrates. In 1915 the arrival of the Royal Flying Corps ushered in a 70-year period of secret military experimentation, mostly working on aerial warfare. Between 1935 and 1937 the first experimental work on radar was conducted on the Ness, and from 1953 tests on Britain's atomic bombs. The best thing about this walk is the strangeness of the landscape: the juxtaposition of wild remoteness and fascinating but disturbing history. After a welcome chat about safety, visitors guide themselves through the site. Allow at least three hours, carry plenty to drink and be prepared for sudden changes in the weather.
Duncan Kent, visitor services warden, National TrustRoute and directionsDistance: Five and a half miles (9km)Start: Orford Quay – grid ref: TM 429494 – maps: OS Landranger 169, Explorer 212Orford Ness was a bombing and firing range for 80 years. Unexploded ordnance is still found here. It is very important to keep to the paths and not touch suspicious objects. 1. Take the Octavia ferry from Orford Quay to the Ness and hand your ticket.2. Follow the red arrows. As you approach the Information Building, look around you at the first world war airfields and later firing ranges. These are now used by breeding waders and wintering wildfowl.3. Visit the information displays in the former site HQ to find out more about the Ness's ecology and history. Exit the buildings and return to the marked red trail. Pass the WCs on your left and at the "gate" the track climbs upwards to the right towards the bridge.4. Cross the Bailey bridge, taking you over Stony Ditch, and follow the red arrows ahead taking the left fork.5. On reaching the Bomb Ballistics Building, climb to the top for superb views over the shingle and marsh. It was once a control centre for the bombing ranges.6. Continue following the red arrows to the working lighthouse, owned by Trinity House. It was built in the late 18th century. From here, drop down on to the beach and turn right along the shore to reach the Police Tower. Turn inland and follow the red arrows.7. Take a look at the information displays at the Black Beacon and Power House. Return to the main roadway, turning left to walk to the Atomic Weapons Research Establishment site8. Laboratory No 1. The first experiment on an atomic bomb at Orford Ness took place here. Return to the Black Beacon, then turn left back to the bridge. Cross it and follow the red arrows to your start point.Terrain and accessibilityEasy to moderate walking conditions along mostly tarmac tracks with some uneven, broken surfaces, several gentle slopes and steps into some buildings. Short optional section (¼ mile) on a shingle beach (unsuitable for pushchairs or wheelchairs). Steep steps on to and off ferry, slippery when wet.Getting here & local facilitiesBy foot/bike: Suffolk Coast Path passes Orford Quay and National Cycle Network bike routes connect with Orford as they meander through the Suffolk countrysideBy bus: regular bus service, Orford-Ipswich, passing through Woodbridge and Melton station.By car: on the Suffolk coast, 12 miles E of Woodbridge station, 10 miles E of Melton station and 9 miles SE of Wickham Market station. It is the final destination of the B1084, 12 miles E of the A12Please note: Access to Orford Ness is only via a National Trust ferry from Orford Quay in Orford village, therefore this walk is only available on a normal open day. NT members pay just the ferry charge (adult £4, child £2). Non-members pay the ferry and an admission charge combined (adult £7.20, child £3.60).WC on Orford Ness, but no cafe or shop, so bring your own food & drink. WC, tea room and pubs at Orford Quay and village.© Reproduced by permission of Ordnance Survey. All rights reserved. OS licence No. AL 1000 18951• For further details visit the National Trust website: nationaltrust.org.uk/walks

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LIVE: TwiTrip to Manchester

August 18, 2010

Follow Benji Lanyado as he live blogs his way around Manchester using your tips gleaned from Twitter. For a little explanation click here• Read all Benji Lanyado's tweets from his TwiTrip to Manchester

Benji Lanyado

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